Razer Basilisk V3 unable to maintain stable connection.

Same problem as mine, light blinking, windows notification chime on and off, tried different USB ports, same problem.

I have same problem. Now permanently chime on and off. 

Fed up with Razer, after basilisk 3 on and off, switch to a cheaper Deathadder essential, now the deathadder broken too. 

I tear down the basilisk v3 and the problem is the Wheel, I disconnected the wheel flexy cable, the mouse works fine but no wheel and middle button.

The deathadder wheel also broken now so I am switching to another mouse (not razer). 

I am also facing same issue with my razer basilisk v3. My mouse was getting disconnected automatically after boot up of my pc so after connecting and disconnecting it was working. So to resolve the issue i uninstalled the drivers from pc so it will automatically download the drivers after restarting the pc but now its continuously connecting and disconnecting and unable to make stable connection and i cant installed the drivers. Please help!

Now i have found the solution. I have checked and found that the hyper scrolling wheel function uses small motor behind the wheel which was faulty, i simply disconnected it by cutting small strip like wire and you are good to go. My scrolling wheel is working fine just i cant use hyper scrolling function that's it. Check the arrow marked as small motor just cut only strip going to motor. To open the mouse you will need to remove bottom stickers and to access screws.

My basilisk suddenly cant get a stable connection. Keep on connect and disconnecting. Tried on different PCs the problem still exist… Now not able to reset as it cant get detected by synapse.

@CopperRedQUARTZaero801 ‘s solution did the trick! It works now, flawlessly. Just no hyperscroll function but could care less about that! Saved me 50$ LMAO! Opened up my mouse twice before today to clean it and see what's wrong but couldn’t figure it out, can’t believe it was this tiny motor LMAO.

looks like i shall remove and try the method

@CopperRedQUARTZaero801  method does the tricks this could use as my backup mouse… No razer mouse again 

It works now but seems like synapse no longer able to detect the device. Is it the same to you guys after did the trick?

Oh thats weird, mine still works with Synapse. Might be a different issue entirely for you… maybe try a reinstall of synapse / basilisk drivers?  

CopperRedQUARTZaero801 wrote:

Now i have found the solution. I have checked and found that the hyper scrolling wheel function uses small motor behind the wheel which was faulty, i simply disconnected it by cutting small strip like wire and you are good to go. My scrolling wheel is working fine just i cant use hyper scrolling function that's it. Check the arrow marked as small motor just cut only strip going to motor. To open the mouse you will need to remove bottom stickers and to access screws.

 

Hey bud, thanks for your advice I cut the small ribbon like you said and my mouse is working again like new, thanks again bud you have saved me a lot of money thanks 

At the beginning I had the same problem with scroll. I solved this by unslodering the small ribbon from the DC motor at the scroll. Unfortunately, after a few months, the mouse sometimes stopped working after its lifted, RGB LEDs faded, and after 2-3 seconds later after put the mouse back everything returned to normal. In the system logs I sometimes found entries about a detachable device, or a problem with communication. The problem became more and more persistent over time. So, I decided to diagnose it.

I started with measurements, on the PCB instead of 5V and 3.6V it was appropriate 2.5V and 2.46V. At first I thought there was a problem in the circuit. The laboratory power supply indicated 5V and current around 19mA. After measuring the voltage on PCB, it was 2.5V at the connector. After lifting the mouse, the voltage dropped to 1.58V - 1.60V and the current increased to 25mA. At the time of greater power consumption, the voltage dropped below 1.6V, which is not sufficient for the proper operation of the MCU (LPC51U68). The same problem is with scroll and the DC motor. It uses a maximum of about 100mA, which is why when the mouse is connected, there is a greater power consumption, which caused a voltage drop below 1.60 V, and this simply resulted in a mouse restart. Therefore, disconnecting the DC motor provisionally solved the problem.

Ultimately, a USB cable turned out to be problematic, it is damaged in such a way that after connecting to PCB, instead of 5V it is about 2.5V. The voltage not connected USB cable to the PCB connector is 5V, but this is misleading. I replaced the USB cable and solder the ribbon to the motor at the scroll. The new USB cable finally solved the problem both with lifting the mouse and free spin scroll.

For those how cut the ribbon, I you have enough soldering skills you can fix it, or you can just buy new scroll with ribbon.

Where did you find a replacement cable exactly? 

Unfortunately, I couldn't find it. I did find it for other Razer mouse models, but not for the Basilisk V3.

I had another USB cable, but it had a different connector. So I cut off the connector from the original cable (the one near the PCB, not the USB-A plug), and left the wires long enough to solder the old connector onto the new cable.

I'm still looking for a new cable, if I find one I'll let you know.

I have an old razer viper that doesn't work laying around, i will use it's cable and do the same thing you did. Thanks for the reply

Before you cut the cable, measure the voltage to be sure that the problem is with the cable.

Thank you so much!

Can you suggest what (not) to do in order to prevent this issue? For example, would it help if I completly disable all RGB-s?

If not, can you post a picture how you soldered the new USB cable to the PCB? Thanks :)

The problem is in the cable. Disabling the RGB or disconnecting the mouse scroll will not solve the problem when lifting it.

I didn't solder the cable directly to the PCB. I cut the cable inside the mouse so I could solder a new one to the cable socket inside the mouse.

Hi. An update on this issue. First, thanks a lot blatio for pointing everyone in the right direction.

For everyone, theres a TL;DR at the end if you don't want to read the whole experiment below.

I tested the voltage inside the mouse and as blatio said, 2.5v or so.

I took the cable out and measure connectivity and all good. Then I measured resistance and I got like 110ohm on 5v+. I thought that was odd. I bought a replacement cable (for another razer model) and while I was waiting for it to arrive I opened the USB A end of the current cable and saw this tiny resistor on pin 5v+. From what I could find online it should be a 1k ohm, but it was measuring 110 ohm. I couldn't find any info on why it would have that there instead of just putting it on the PCB.

I did test the cable as well by stretching it and bending all sections. No issues there.

So, the new cable arrived shortly after (with different internal connector :(  ), I measured resistance on it and there was none (more than just due to the wires themselves). So before I connected anything, I wanted to test the behavour adding a resistance. 1k ohm resistance and mouse didn't work at all. A 100 ohm and it was lighting up, but having the same issues as before. Finally a 10 ohm and it was working ok.

Since 10 ohm is meh, I bridged the resistor from the old cable (the one in the photo), connected the thing and as expected from blatio’s troubleshooting, it worked flawlessly. All colours light up, the mouse doesn't disconnect when lifting, free-spin/tactile togle works perfect. 

If you got some basic tools, and you checked that the cable itself isn't cut someplace, just cut up the port, bridge that resistor and you're good to go. There's not need to buy a cable even.

TL;DR If the voltage is 2.5 or lower in the PCB, the cable is the problem (thanks again, blatio) for the issues with missing LED colours, free-spin/tactile not working, disconnecting when lifting, etc. You can either order a new cable (razer or any other one, from Aliexpress) or cut up the USB end and bridge the resistor seen in the image with the most basic soldering skills.

Of course, this solution is at your own risk, but if your mouse already was heading to the rubbish bin, this is definitely worth it.

I love the mouse, but I’m surprised that in all the online research I did Razer support never managed to troubleshoot an issue that so many people are having and is solved by just getting a new cable.

I was thinking overnight, that might not be a resistance (although it looks like one) but some kind of fuse. 

As said, follow the advice abovenat your own risk.

Edit: yes. It is a faulty fuse. Just googled a bit and found it. Rated 1.5A. First time I encounter one looking like that.