Razer Basilisk V3 unable to maintain stable connection.

Hi,

First of all - thanks everyone for looking into this.
For those who are wondering what bridging means, if I got it correctly - it basically means to skip the fuse and just connect the two 5v ends (by soldering), without using the fuse (as seen below).

Now regarding the other solution with cutting the small ribbon.
If you DON'T want to cut it (as I didn't either), you can just use some transparent scotch tape - just take a tiny bit, and cover all the way around 2 of the pins that are coming from the actuator (which is causing the issue).

This way, the covered pins won't transmit anything and act like the ribbon is cut off.
Keep in mind that you need to cover only the 2 pins, otherwise the scroll wheel itself may not work (it took me 2 tries to cover only 2 pins with scotch tape) - but now the mouse works as expected, only without the infinite scroll.

Maybe at some point I'll try to change the entire cable, to see if the mouse works as expected without this scotch tape gimmick.

Hi,

Thanks for the reply.
That was on my list - to replace the cable. But unfortunately, it's not easy to find one for Basilisk v3, or at least a cheap one.

Do you have any idea if the ones from Aliexpress, that are for Razer DeathAdder Elite - would work on the the basilisk? I know the ports can be different, but I think that can be fixed. My worry is the voltage, and if it will make the Basilisk work as expected. 

Or if you can share where you got the cable, please. 

Amazing troubleshooting. I have a razer basilisk v3 that dissconnects from the pc when lifted off of the mousepad. The hyperscroll function hasn’t been working for a long time because of the motor (I think) and I did not cut the motor ribbon cable because it hasn’t caused any problems. I want to say that I managed to fix the dissconection problem by turning off the RGB in the Synapse software. I did not check if I have the cable problem, but I am guessing that I have that problem and the RGB is adding to the current that the mouse pulls thus making the voltage drop high enough to turn off. Hope it helps someone that doesn’t want to open the mouse.

Cordial 

Greetings!I'm writing from Colombia.(Using Google Translate)Could bridging the fuse at the USB A end damage my gaming PC?Is that fuse available as a replacement, or is it exclusive to Razer and not available elsewhere?Thank you so much for helping me solve this problem! 👍

Greetings!I'm writing from Colombia.(Using Google Translate)Could bridging the fuse at the USB A end damage my gaming PC?Is that fuse available as a replacement, or is it exclusive to Razer and not available elsewhere?Thank you so much for helping me solve this problem! 👍

I would say the mouse is at significantly more risk than the PC, but it would be a long term issue probably. It's been a year and it’s still working flawlessly.

(Tr: diría que el riesgo es bastante mayot para el mouse que el PC, pero algo que quizás se vería a largo plazo. Ya ha pasado un año desde mi arreglo y sigue funcionando sin problemas).

The deathadder has a different connector than the Basilisk. I bought that one from Aliexpress and it didn't match. I was about to start desoldering and resoldering stuff when I tried opening the cable and found the faulty fuse.

I think I either couldn’t find a Basilisk mouse replacement or it was ridiculously expensive, therfore I got the Deathadder thinking it looked the same (but it isn't). 

Hello everybody. I come back with great news. I managed to fully repair my mouse.

Like I said turning off the rgb did make it work but only for a week or so. When the problem came back I decided to open up the usb connector remove the fuse and bridge the pads. I managed to do this without replacing the cable.

Using side cutters I cut the rubber sheath that is around the usb connector.

Using pliers and thicker tweezers I managed to bend the two tabs that are on both sides of the metal shield. Also the metal shield has a thin metal protrusion that is held in place by metal tabs at the bottom, I had to free that as well. The metal protrusion and one of the tabs are highlighted with red circles in the first image.

Using two pliers I removed the metal shield. This gave me access to the fuse that can be seen in the photo. It was encased in plastic, but using a scalpel/xacto knife I managed to cut the plastic and pry it from underneath. This cleanly removed the plastic from the pcb.

This photo is before I managed to cleanly remove the plastic. The fuse and the cuts in the plastic can be seen.

I did not manage to bridge the pads using solder, but I used solder and a piece of solid wire to connect them.

The next very important step is to add an insulator so the wire will not touch the shield by mistake. I used a hot glue gun to protect the exposed pcb by encasing it in hot glue. I reinstalled the usb shield making sure I press the 2 side tabs. Also using the hot glue gun I glued the two rubber halves togheter.

I did some research and I found out what fuse was used for anyone who wants to replace it. I will not replace it because it might break again. Also I spent too much time and money to repair this mouse when I could have bought a brand new one with not much more money. The fuse is made by Littelfuse and is the model 0603L050SLYR. I found it on lcsc here is the link.
Before being aware of the fuse problem I bought a new scroll wheel assembly from aliexpress. I replaced it but the mouse went into a connection dissconnection loop (with the motor going crazy trying to switch from tactile to free-spin) and I thought it was a bad part. I am pleased to say that removing the fuse made the new scroll wheel assembly work perfectly and now I have the hyperscroll function working. Also I lubed the gears that are used to change between tactile and free-spin. I used Glorious G-Lube hoping that if it is good enough for keyboard switches it will be good for this as well. I did this to hopefully prevent the motor from breaking as fast as the last one did.
Big thanks to cjarao and blatio for figuring out that the fuse was the problem.