Razer Tartarus V2 controller D-pad sticking / glitch
Userlevel 1
so while using the Tartarus V2, the d pad sticks and you keep moving in one direction till u press the same direction again. I know a lot of people have this problem while looking through the forums and the one solution is to delete razer synaps. but unfortunately I use a lot of razer products and that's the best way to match and customize RGB. so its either I deal with that annoying glitch and have cool colors and effects. or i delete synaps and don't deal with that glitch but now half my RGB features are useless. I was hoping to bring this back to the attention of the developers to see if u can make a small patch for synaps so the people who use the Tartarus can enjoy there gaming and RGB lights at the same time. Please and thank you.
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Daisame
They did not ask you to print out all the correspondance with support and attach it to the outside of the box? Or ask you to incldude "forms provided by support" whatever that means, and add that to the outside of the box? They did not ask you the same questions over and over again?
This is what they sent me and it is rediculous:
They literally have a log of this issue (or SHOULD). Having me print out the issue and include it on the outside of he box is asinine. What 'forms' am I expected to include? I asked them for a list of those forms so I don't miss anything.
The best part, I doubt highly that a replacement is going to fix this issue. So all this trouble is going to result in not fixing the problem and then what? Yeah I am not going to ever buy another Razer product.
I am certain it varies depending on which country you are in at the time of performing the RMA process. For me at least, the RMA process was simply to destroy the product, and send in proof of the product being destroyed (video file, or pictures), then they will be able to process the RMA. This is a pretty consistent RMA process at least in Asia, as I had done many RMAs in this fashion as well.
I understood that I just had to give the RMA number outside the box and I did.
Inside I put a piece of paper with the RMA number, case number, link to this forum, my nickname on the forum and a very brief description of the problem and there was no problem.
Inside I put a piece of paper with the RMA number, case number, link to this forum, my nickname on the forum and a very brief description of the problem and there was no problem.
Well, that is not what they asked for from me. Should I follow your instructions, or the instructions of the support representative?
Daisame
Well, that is not what they asked for from me. Should I follow your instructions, or the instructions of the support representative?
Definitely follow the Razer Support's instructions that was provided to you.
Oh, wow – no; honestly it sounds like they are trying to “over-communicate” the instructions to you, @Daisame . I’ve seen this happen in correspondence when someone is struggling with (or trying to over-compensate for) a language barrier, when English is not their first language. (and let’s face it: the finer points of the English language can be VERY challenging, even when it is your first language!).
In my experience (RMA’ing twice before with Razer, and other companies too), here’s all you need to do …
You probably received two files to print off.
Shipping Label and Air Way Bill:
Probably a one page shipping label, followed by the second page which is probably the Air Way Bill (AWB). In fact, it’s possible they might have sent a duplicate copy of the Air Way Bill as a third page.
The Shipping Label states all the most important info in a big, bold way. It includes the name/branding of the chosen courier (FedEx, for example), bar codes for scanning, tracking number, and states what level/tier of shipping is to be sent (example: INTL ** 2DAY **).
The Air Way Bill states pretty much all of the same information, but it doesn’t use as huge a font size and it only has one, slightly smaller bar code. Mine was being shipped international (I’m in Canada), so my Air Way Bill also declared the Country of Manufacture (Country MFG: Ch) and the Customs Value (cannot be zero, so is assigned a nominal value of $1.00) at the bottom, right above the conditions of Contract of Carriage. Note that you might have duplicate copies of the Air Way Bill. I’m not sure how necessary the duplicates are, but I would recommend including them with the shipment just in case.
Commercial Invoice:
Probably only one page, with Razer branding along the top of the page. This form declares who is exporting the goods, and who is responsible for consigning the shipment. In this case, you are the exporter – you’re sending the keypad back to them. But they are the consignee, because they paid and coordinated the return shipment. The main part of the Commercial Invoice indicates details on what is contained in the shipment. What it is, how many there are, how much it weighs, the tariff code, the country of manufacture, and the value of the item (again: it cannot be zero, so they just declare a nominal value of $1.00).
Take a look at the forms they sent you via email. You’ve likely received the same forms, but yours might be different, depending where you’re geographically located. Whatever they sent you via email should be ALL you need to attach to the box.
If you want to be really careful/helpful to provide everything they need to know about the reason for the return, here’s what I suggest:
FIRST: Notice, and take reassurance from the fact that Razer themselves should’ve included notes on the documents they emailed you.
Take a look at your Air Way Bill, underneath the bar code, and underneath the time stamp/service level … there should be a line labeled REF for Reference, and four lines labeled DESC for Description. In my own personal case, when I returned mine, Razer had typed in the RMA# on that REF line and they had typed in Defective Keypad on the first DESC1 line. Hopefully Razer put the same kind of notations on your forms. If not, handwrite them in yourself, very neatly.
And if you want to be REALLY careful/helpful to provide everything they (Razer) need to know about the reason for the return, then I would suggest handwriting on line DESC2 and DESC3: See Razer help desk ticket Case #201XXX-00XXXX. Like this (but obviously write your own case number, not mine, lol).
(*Removed screenshot for security reasons)
Next, take a look at your Commercial Invoice. Near the bottom of the form, right underneath where they’ve totaled the weight and packages in your shipment, there’s a space on the form for Special Instructions. Hopefully, Razer already typed in your RMA# in that spot – If not, be sure to handwrite it in neatly, yourself. And again: if you want to be really careful/helpful to provide everything they need to know about the reason for the return, then I would suggest handwriting the same additional notation that you did to the Air Way Bill. Like this:
(*Removed screenshot for security reasons)
Another thing you can do, if you want to be really careful/helpful with ensuring the safe and efficient processing of your return, you can fold these documents into a large Ziploc bag, and tape the Ziploc bag to the outside of the box (do not tape over the zip-top). This helps to protect the important documents from any wet/weather conditions, and it provides quick and easy access to all the important documents inside, for the courier and customs agents, and everyone along the way. Take some tips from how I do it:
After all of this is said and one however, the bottom line is: you're suspicions are likely accurate. RMA doesn't help; a brand new device will almost undoubtedly encounter the same issue. And yes, it sucks to be without the device entirely (which we've gotten used to running without Synapse, or running on reWASD) for the week or two it takes to process your returned unit. I can say two good things about Razer providing you with an RMA:
Personally, I didn't even bother to accept when their senior tech advisors offered me an RMA this time around. I figured it would be more hassle than it was worth, and wouldn't solve a thing. And I typically always keep all my keys/buttons/peripherals super wiped-down and clean anyways, so nothing to gain there, either! Hehe!
In my experience (RMA’ing twice before with Razer, and other companies too), here’s all you need to do …
You probably received two files to print off.
Shipping Label and Air Way Bill:
Probably a one page shipping label, followed by the second page which is probably the Air Way Bill (AWB). In fact, it’s possible they might have sent a duplicate copy of the Air Way Bill as a third page.
The Shipping Label states all the most important info in a big, bold way. It includes the name/branding of the chosen courier (FedEx, for example), bar codes for scanning, tracking number, and states what level/tier of shipping is to be sent (example: INTL ** 2DAY **).
The Air Way Bill states pretty much all of the same information, but it doesn’t use as huge a font size and it only has one, slightly smaller bar code. Mine was being shipped international (I’m in Canada), so my Air Way Bill also declared the Country of Manufacture (Country MFG: Ch) and the Customs Value (cannot be zero, so is assigned a nominal value of $1.00) at the bottom, right above the conditions of Contract of Carriage. Note that you might have duplicate copies of the Air Way Bill. I’m not sure how necessary the duplicates are, but I would recommend including them with the shipment just in case.
Commercial Invoice:
Probably only one page, with Razer branding along the top of the page. This form declares who is exporting the goods, and who is responsible for consigning the shipment. In this case, you are the exporter – you’re sending the keypad back to them. But they are the consignee, because they paid and coordinated the return shipment. The main part of the Commercial Invoice indicates details on what is contained in the shipment. What it is, how many there are, how much it weighs, the tariff code, the country of manufacture, and the value of the item (again: it cannot be zero, so they just declare a nominal value of $1.00).
Take a look at the forms they sent you via email. You’ve likely received the same forms, but yours might be different, depending where you’re geographically located. Whatever they sent you via email should be ALL you need to attach to the box.
If you want to be really careful/helpful to provide everything they need to know about the reason for the return, here’s what I suggest:
FIRST: Notice, and take reassurance from the fact that Razer themselves should’ve included notes on the documents they emailed you.
Take a look at your Air Way Bill, underneath the bar code, and underneath the time stamp/service level … there should be a line labeled REF for Reference, and four lines labeled DESC for Description. In my own personal case, when I returned mine, Razer had typed in the RMA# on that REF line and they had typed in Defective Keypad on the first DESC1 line. Hopefully Razer put the same kind of notations on your forms. If not, handwrite them in yourself, very neatly.
And if you want to be REALLY careful/helpful to provide everything they (Razer) need to know about the reason for the return, then I would suggest handwriting on line DESC2 and DESC3: See Razer help desk ticket Case #201XXX-00XXXX. Like this (but obviously write your own case number, not mine, lol).
(*Removed screenshot for security reasons)
Next, take a look at your Commercial Invoice. Near the bottom of the form, right underneath where they’ve totaled the weight and packages in your shipment, there’s a space on the form for Special Instructions. Hopefully, Razer already typed in your RMA# in that spot – If not, be sure to handwrite it in neatly, yourself. And again: if you want to be really careful/helpful to provide everything they need to know about the reason for the return, then I would suggest handwriting the same additional notation that you did to the Air Way Bill. Like this:
(*Removed screenshot for security reasons)
Another thing you can do, if you want to be really careful/helpful with ensuring the safe and efficient processing of your return, you can fold these documents into a large Ziploc bag, and tape the Ziploc bag to the outside of the box (do not tape over the zip-top). This helps to protect the important documents from any wet/weather conditions, and it provides quick and easy access to all the important documents inside, for the courier and customs agents, and everyone along the way. Take some tips from how I do it:
- First, I make sure the Ziploc bag is going to be big enough. Large ones are best (approx. 27cm x 27cm), to enable the courier to see the entire shipping label once its folded and bagged. Sandwich sized bags are probably too small.
- Then I add a notation to the outside of the Ziploc bag, saying “AWB & COMM INV ENCLOSED”. I handwrite it neatly using a fine point permanent marker that won’t wash off if the package encounters rain/snow; or I prepare, print, and affix a small label that won’t obstruct the view of the critical information on the Shipping Label.
- Then, I try to fold it and bag it to so that the entire Shipping Label is obviously clearly facing out (the front of the Ziploc bag) … and then I fold the Air Way Bill and the Commercial Invoice in behind that. They don’t need to be face-out and seen at all times … they only need to be included, available, and accessible.
- Lastly, I tape it to the top of the box good and thorough so that it won’t fall off and stays secure, but be careful that you do NOT tape over the zip-top. The whole point is to enable easy access for all agents along the way needing the inside info.
After all of this is said and one however, the bottom line is: you're suspicions are likely accurate. RMA doesn't help; a brand new device will almost undoubtedly encounter the same issue. And yes, it sucks to be without the device entirely (which we've gotten used to running without Synapse, or running on reWASD) for the week or two it takes to process your returned unit. I can say two good things about Razer providing you with an RMA:
- It demonstrates great customer service. I have always said, they excel at customer service. It's important to note that customer service is entirely different than tech support. In my experience, Razer has always been super responsive to my questions/concerns, quick with replies, and eager to please -- they honestly do try very hard. I think maybe their tech team either needs more resources, or they should take some lessons from their customer service team on how to deliver a great experience, tbh.
- A brand new device that malfunctions is not much better than a moderately new or older device that malfunctions, but it is still marginally better. If for no other reason than the fact that you'll end up with cleaner keys and wrist support!
Personally, I didn't even bother to accept when their senior tech advisors offered me an RMA this time around. I figured it would be more hassle than it was worth, and wouldn't solve a thing. And I typically always keep all my keys/buttons/peripherals super wiped-down and clean anyways, so nothing to gain there, either! Hehe!
Same problem here and also wasd related, i have the tartarus pro since yesterday, brandnew. The sticking issue occurs 2-3 every hour.
SnakeSP
Try this:
go to Control Panel\\All Control Panel Items\\Devices and Printers
right-click on razer keypad and select Properties
click on Hardware tab
click on <Razer device name> Input Device - click Properties button below
click Change settings
click Power Management tab
uncheck the Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power checkbox
click OK
do the same for USB Input Device
This resolved the issue for me.
Tested for 3 hours and it works.Tommorow will do more testing.
Userlevel 7
- Razer Support
- 7595 replies
-
27 February 2021
the_novena
@Razer.Speedcr0ss ... I'm not sure when my case was closed, but the issue is clearly not resolved yet.
Could you please have your tech team re-open my Case #(*Omitted)?
The alternative would be for me to open a new ticket for the same issue. This would end up inflating Razer's case count on this issue (maybe that's a good thing, if it results in more attention to this issue). Although an inflated case count doesn't really matter to me, personally, it seems counterproductive in that it would:
- necessitate repeating information/trouble-shooting already been performed on Case #(*Omitted).
- skew Razer's internal data on how frequently/how many users this issue is affecting.
- result in less efficient use of tech team resources and data management.
Although it should go without saying, please let me be clear: help desk tickets should NOT be closed until satisfactory resolution has been reached.
In the last reply on my case (January 21), Razer advised me that:
[indent]Thank you for your patience and providing us with your feedback concerning this issue. We have escalated this ticket for further review and investigation, but at this time we do not have a solution for the concern. If a solution can be found, it will most likely come in the form of a future software or firmware release for your product. Please be sure to check on our support site for these future releases based on your product. Feel free to contact us back any time if you have other Razer concerns. Your case number is (*Omitted).[/indent]
While I appreciate the honesty of this reply, it seems obvious ("... we do not have a solution ...") that this is NOT a resolution. Since the problem is not solved, the ticket should not be closed.
Thank you!
Hi the_novena. The Support Team escalated the controller's behavior with Razer Synapse 3.0 to our devs that's why the support case number was closed. I've shared your feedback with the team.
Hey SnakeSP! I appreciate the workaround. I sent it to the team so they can test it too.
Thanks for testing, Seegeth. Please monitor the device after 24-48 hours. I'll communicate to our Support Team showing the updates on this thread
Seegeth
Tested for 3 hours and it works.Tommorow will do more testing.
SnakeSP
Try this:
go to Control Panel\\All Control Panel Items\\Devices and Printers
right-click on razer keypad and select Properties
click on Hardware tab
click on <Razer device name> Input Device - click Properties button below
click Change settings
click Power Management tab
uncheck the Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power checkbox
click OK
do the same for USB Input Device
This resolved the issue for me.
Tried this and doesn't work for me. At first i thought the issue was solved but after a few hours the problems came back unfortunatly.
Tried the mentioned workaround too. Doesnt help, still same frequent problem with repeating keypad commands (usually WASD).
Switched back to the third-party software reWASD and it works fine without problems again.
Unfortunately the RGB are not configurable with the workaround software (or I didn't find out).
But at least the bug from the synapse software isnt there (you have to disable synapse completely)
I keep observing this thread for further infos and i am willing to switch back to the razor software as soon as they fix their software (IF they ever manage to handle this issue)
Switched back to the third-party software reWASD and it works fine without problems again.
Unfortunately the RGB are not configurable with the workaround software (or I didn't find out).
But at least the bug from the synapse software isnt there (you have to disable synapse completely)
I keep observing this thread for further infos and i am willing to switch back to the razor software as soon as they fix their software (IF they ever manage to handle this issue)
Any word on updates? I don't have a a Tartarus yet but seeing this problem posted in multiple areas has put me off on the purchase. I use a Belkin n52te now and want to get a more modern version with 5 more keys. Seems like I must wait for some fixes.
Shinglebilly
Any word on updates? I don't have a a Tartarus yet but seeing this problem posted in multiple areas has put me off on the purchase. I use a Belkin n52te now and want to get a more modern version with 5 more keys. Seems like I must wait for some fixes.
Don't buy the Tartarus!
I am a big Razer fan but €130 for a keypad with a glitch like this is unacceptable. If i knew this beforehand i would never have bought it. I will return mine and get my money back.
I also recommend to not buy it until the issue is confirmed solved (this problem exists for quite some time)
After 12 hours of Breathedge no issue.
But it does not mean much, because for others did not help and the solution "Local Windows Account" worked for a week.and then "problem" come back.
But will play more.
P.S.
@Zilz2, @Koshirun
Surely you have unchecked (Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power checkbox) on all devices? There are 3.
But it does not mean much, because for others did not help and the solution "Local Windows Account" worked for a week.and then "problem" come back.
But will play more.
P.S.
@Zilz2, @Koshirun
Surely you have unchecked (Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power checkbox) on all devices? There are 3.
Hi all,
I bought my Tartarus V2 in October 2019, and only two days ago it started pressing the three key of its own accord.
I’ve used mine *without* Synapse on a Mac with another key mapping software the entire time.
Plugging into a windows surface pro with synapse installed produces the same or worse results.
It won’t stop when I press the 3 key again, but it will stop when I press the 2 key!
Also updating synapse to the latest version has broken the “reactive” lighting setting.
I also have a second Tartarus V2 that is operating fine in regard to sticky keys, on both machines. (Although this second device I bought on eBay with a broken d-pad left button, and 12 missing key caps as a backup, it’s proved interesting for testing.
So how can it be a software issue if:
1. My other Tartarus V2 works fine?
2. The issue occurred initially on my Mac which doesn’t have Synapse installed?
Currently dialoguing with support, but it is slow and tedious.
I’m very tempted to buy a mechanical keyboard kit and gut one of them and replace the keys/board with something more reliable.
I bought my Tartarus V2 in October 2019, and only two days ago it started pressing the three key of its own accord.
I’ve used mine *without* Synapse on a Mac with another key mapping software the entire time.
Plugging into a windows surface pro with synapse installed produces the same or worse results.
It won’t stop when I press the 3 key again, but it will stop when I press the 2 key!
Also updating synapse to the latest version has broken the “reactive” lighting setting.
I also have a second Tartarus V2 that is operating fine in regard to sticky keys, on both machines. (Although this second device I bought on eBay with a broken d-pad left button, and 12 missing key caps as a backup, it’s proved interesting for testing.
So how can it be a software issue if:
1. My other Tartarus V2 works fine?
2. The issue occurred initially on my Mac which doesn’t have Synapse installed?
Currently dialoguing with support, but it is slow and tedious.
I’m very tempted to buy a mechanical keyboard kit and gut one of them and replace the keys/board with something more reliable.
After 15 hours of game "problem" come back. 
cpoChiD
so while using the Tartarus V2, the d pad sticks and you keep moving in one direction till u press the same direction again. I know a lot of people have this problem while looking through the forums and the one solution is to delete razer synaps. but unfortunately I use a lot of razer products and that's the best way to match and customize RGB. so its either I deal with that annoying glitch and have cool colors and effects. or i delete synaps and don't deal with that glitch but now half my RGB features are useless. I was hoping to bring this back to the attention of the developers to see if u can make a small patch for synaps so the people who use the Tartarus can enjoy there gaming and RGB lights at the same time. Please and thank you.
I agree. For all I spent on it its quit annoying while im playing warzone
Userlevel 7
- Razer Support
- 7595 replies
-
4 March 2021
Seegeth
After 15 hours of game "problem" come back. :slightly_sad:
Hi Seegeth! The Support Team replaced your unit as they wanted to check and replicate the behavior by using your device. They are working on this behavior and will update again this thread once I got a follow-up from the team.
Razer.Speedcr0ss
Hi Seegeth! The Support Team replaced your unit as they wanted to check and replicate the behavior by using your device. They are working on this behavior and will update again this thread once I got a follow-up from the team.
Cool, hope this helps.
Thinking about buying the Tartarus V2 Pro but this thread has scared me off. Is this happening with all the Tartarus? Been checking this thread for the past couple of weeks and it still seems that its not a priority to fix. Do consumers know that they are buying something that will fail and has bugs that makes the product not function as intended when purchased? Don't see anything on the shop about this.
Can someone guide me to see if this is happening with every Tartarus or has it been fixed on newer production versions?
Can someone guide me to see if this is happening with every Tartarus or has it been fixed on newer production versions?
djofonunez
Thinking about buying the Tartarus V2 Pro but this thread has scared me off. Is this happening with all the Tartarus? Been checking this thread for the past couple of weeks and it still seems that its not a priority to fix. Do consumers know that they are buying something that will fail and has bugs that makes the product not function as intended when purchased? Don't see anything on the shop about this.
Can someone guide me to see if this is happening with every Tartarus or has it been fixed on newer production versions?
From the current observations, this affects most, if not, ALL Tartarus v2/Pro Lineup. (To some extent, new Huntsman keyboards too) If you are willing to use a 3rd party software like reWASD (paid software), then the product itself works mostly as intended. Otherwise, i would recommend you to wait until a proper resolution is found in the near future.
NoahArk620
From the current observations, this affects most, if not, ALL Tartarus v2/Pro Lineup. (To some extent, new Huntsman keyboards too) If you are willing to use a 3rd party software like reWASD (paid software), then the product itself works mostly as intended. Otherwise, i would recommend you to wait until a proper resolution is found in the near future.
Thanks for quick response will hold off from purchasing it.
Wow this is pretty deceiving as I had no seen anything closely related when trying to buy this on the Razer Store until I got into the forums. Shouldn't Razer be more transparent to new consumers buying this? From reading this thread they know there is a bug yet are not alerting people on the product page, so literally buying something that will fail as soon as they open it. Really surprised to see this behavior from Razer.
Can't use third party software as I have the Orbweaver now, which is old and already failing on one key, blackwidow keyboard, headphone chroma stand and rgb controller hub so not using it would make all the other products invalid.
I am also considering buying the Tartarus Pro but I am now worried to end up getting into more headaches that I would like to....
Aside from this controller D pad sticking, which I seem to understand from this Thread might affect some owners of these Keypads, by watching Videos and reading reviews or threads on this Keypad, I also found that some lament issues with the ADJUSTABLE ACTUATION, one of the main features of the Tartarus Pro that I was considering it worth buying for....
in particular, I have seen some reviewers indicating how, regardless whether one might set the Secondary Actuation all the way to the bottom of 3.6 mm, somehow the key, when pressed, triggers the Secondary Actuation moreless around half way down while one is instead expecting the key to be pressed all the way to the button to trigger it....
Unless I misunderstood the problem lamented, I also seemed to understand that some owners lamented mulfunctioning of these mechanics whereas one of the actuations somehow, "overrides" the other....
For example, my understanding was that, from reading about this feature, I "could have" set on the same 1 key, my Primary Actuation as " w " (i.e."walk") and my Secondary Actuation as " W " (or " Shift+w ") which it would be running.... well, according to these poste here https://insider.razer.com/index.php?posts/646845/ as well as here /tartarus-pro-primary-key-sticking.70303/ it looks like this cannot be done ?
Is that really so ?
If so, what good is this Adjustable Actuation if one cannot have 2 different actions mapped at the Primary and Secondary actuation on the same key ? I do not understand, can anyone who already has the Tartarus Pro and has been using it please explain to me what the problem is, here ?
If that is really an issue, it might, of course, result in unwanted actions while playing a game....
I am not sure whether this is a Software issue or a hardware one, does anyone know if it is a known issue and whether it is being taken care of ?
Is it something strictly related to "movements' issues" or does it involve all types of Macros alike ?
For example, say that I set as Primary a smaller spell, and then as Secondary a stronger spell on the same one key, going upwards and downwards with the pressing of that one key would it activate "either" spell just fine, depending on how much I was to press that key, or does one have to entirely release the key each and every time to fully deactivate it before it can be pressed again for that same macro to be activated again, whether being mapped on the Primary or Secondary Actuation ?
If so, this would be a problem for me....
Could also anyone among those currently usig the Tartarus Pro tell me how it is in regards to the "tactile" feeling when pressing the keys ?
In some reviews that I saw, I saw lamented the lack of any tactile feeling when pressing the keys of the Tartarus Pro... is that so ? Is it something which one can get used to, over time, using this keypad ?
As in regards to the Adjustable Actuation again, what is the risk, if one sets the Primary Actuation at the lowest setting possible, I believe 1.5 mm, that this might make the keys so sensitive that one might risk, inadvertedly, hitting with one's own finger, not just the one key that one wants to press, but also the one right below it, thus resulting in not just 1 but 2 keys being pressed one after the other with consequential unwanted results in the game that one is playing ?
Sure, one might well set the Primary Actuation at a deeper setting to reduce or avoid this risk but then, this would put the Primary and Secondary Actuation settings too close with one another which, I would imagine, would not be a good thing either....
So, I'd rather have the Primary Actuation set at 1.5 mm and the Secondary at 3.6 mm to make sure not to get them too close to one another but then, I would not want to either risk to trigger not only the one key that I want, but also the one below it....
Finally, how loud is the noise that results from pressing the keys ?
The reason that I am asking, is that I like silent keyboards, primarily not to annoy others who may be around me with that continuous click click sound all the time, but also for myself, because that continuous click click results annoying also to me...
How loud is the noise from pressing the keys of this particular keypad, as compared to membrane or mechanical or other types of keys ?
In this regard, I seem to remember that the Razer Orbweaver came with a more silent Stealth version, and Razer also has, if I still remember correctly, a "Stealth", more silent version of the BlackWidow keyboard.
Bottom line is, is there available as well a Stealth, more silent version for the Tartarus Pro keypad ?
Thanks for the help ! I would really like to buy this Keypad, only, I am quite worried to make a wrong purchase for what I need it to do, and the help from you guys who have already been using it, in regards to the questions I asked to make myself better decide, would greatly aid me to make up my mind....
Thanks !
Aside from this controller D pad sticking, which I seem to understand from this Thread might affect some owners of these Keypads, by watching Videos and reading reviews or threads on this Keypad, I also found that some lament issues with the ADJUSTABLE ACTUATION, one of the main features of the Tartarus Pro that I was considering it worth buying for....
in particular, I have seen some reviewers indicating how, regardless whether one might set the Secondary Actuation all the way to the bottom of 3.6 mm, somehow the key, when pressed, triggers the Secondary Actuation moreless around half way down while one is instead expecting the key to be pressed all the way to the button to trigger it....
Unless I misunderstood the problem lamented, I also seemed to understand that some owners lamented mulfunctioning of these mechanics whereas one of the actuations somehow, "overrides" the other....
For example, my understanding was that, from reading about this feature, I "could have" set on the same 1 key, my Primary Actuation as " w " (i.e."walk") and my Secondary Actuation as " W " (or " Shift+w ") which it would be running.... well, according to these poste here https://insider.razer.com/index.php?posts/646845/ as well as here /tartarus-pro-primary-key-sticking.70303/ it looks like this cannot be done ?
Is that really so ?
If so, what good is this Adjustable Actuation if one cannot have 2 different actions mapped at the Primary and Secondary actuation on the same key ? I do not understand, can anyone who already has the Tartarus Pro and has been using it please explain to me what the problem is, here ?
If that is really an issue, it might, of course, result in unwanted actions while playing a game....
I am not sure whether this is a Software issue or a hardware one, does anyone know if it is a known issue and whether it is being taken care of ?
Is it something strictly related to "movements' issues" or does it involve all types of Macros alike ?
For example, say that I set as Primary a smaller spell, and then as Secondary a stronger spell on the same one key, going upwards and downwards with the pressing of that one key would it activate "either" spell just fine, depending on how much I was to press that key, or does one have to entirely release the key each and every time to fully deactivate it before it can be pressed again for that same macro to be activated again, whether being mapped on the Primary or Secondary Actuation ?
If so, this would be a problem for me....
Could also anyone among those currently usig the Tartarus Pro tell me how it is in regards to the "tactile" feeling when pressing the keys ?
In some reviews that I saw, I saw lamented the lack of any tactile feeling when pressing the keys of the Tartarus Pro... is that so ? Is it something which one can get used to, over time, using this keypad ?
As in regards to the Adjustable Actuation again, what is the risk, if one sets the Primary Actuation at the lowest setting possible, I believe 1.5 mm, that this might make the keys so sensitive that one might risk, inadvertedly, hitting with one's own finger, not just the one key that one wants to press, but also the one right below it, thus resulting in not just 1 but 2 keys being pressed one after the other with consequential unwanted results in the game that one is playing ?
Sure, one might well set the Primary Actuation at a deeper setting to reduce or avoid this risk but then, this would put the Primary and Secondary Actuation settings too close with one another which, I would imagine, would not be a good thing either....
So, I'd rather have the Primary Actuation set at 1.5 mm and the Secondary at 3.6 mm to make sure not to get them too close to one another but then, I would not want to either risk to trigger not only the one key that I want, but also the one below it....
Finally, how loud is the noise that results from pressing the keys ?
The reason that I am asking, is that I like silent keyboards, primarily not to annoy others who may be around me with that continuous click click sound all the time, but also for myself, because that continuous click click results annoying also to me...
How loud is the noise from pressing the keys of this particular keypad, as compared to membrane or mechanical or other types of keys ?
In this regard, I seem to remember that the Razer Orbweaver came with a more silent Stealth version, and Razer also has, if I still remember correctly, a "Stealth", more silent version of the BlackWidow keyboard.
Bottom line is, is there available as well a Stealth, more silent version for the Tartarus Pro keypad ?
Thanks for the help ! I would really like to buy this Keypad, only, I am quite worried to make a wrong purchase for what I need it to do, and the help from you guys who have already been using it, in regards to the questions I asked to make myself better decide, would greatly aid me to make up my mind....
Thanks !
Hi @djofonunez,
I bought my Tartarus Pro several weeks ago and put about 25 hours of gameplay in it. I've had the sticking issue appear only once in all those hours. So for me this has not really been a problem at all. I'm satisfied with my purchase, but it seems that is not the case for many others, unfortunately.
I've been following this thread for a little while now, and it feels like the sticking problem could be build-specific, as it is not the keypads that are physically malfunctioning, but a software problem. The thing is, not everyone has the same amount of problems. That's the kind of bug that's really hard to track down.
So I can't really recommend the product based on others' issues with it, but for me, I really like it.
I bought my Tartarus Pro several weeks ago and put about 25 hours of gameplay in it. I've had the sticking issue appear only once in all those hours. So for me this has not really been a problem at all. I'm satisfied with my purchase, but it seems that is not the case for many others, unfortunately.
I've been following this thread for a little while now, and it feels like the sticking problem could be build-specific, as it is not the keypads that are physically malfunctioning, but a software problem. The thing is, not everyone has the same amount of problems. That's the kind of bug that's really hard to track down.
So I can't really recommend the product based on others' issues with it, but for me, I really like it.
I have used the Tartarus Pro for roughly 4 months now and the sticking issue occurred within the first week of use. The issue can occur numerous times throughout a 3-4 hour session and is completely random with what triggers it. I have not experienced any other problems but this 'minor' issue seriously sours the product for me.
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